When it comes to pizza toppings, is pineapple quickly becoming the new pepperoni?
说到披萨配料，菠萝是否会迅速成为新的意大利辣香肠?
Such might be the key takeaway from a new National State of Pizza report from Slice, the food-ordering app that works with 18,000 pizzerias across the country. The report found that pizza orders with pineapple — perhaps the most controversial and divisive of all toppings — surged by 76% in 2021, based on Slice data.
这可能是Slice最新发布的《全国披萨状况报告》(National State of Pizza)得出的关键结论。Slice是一款订餐应用，与全美1.8万家披萨店合作。该报告发现，根据Slice的数据，2021年，菠萝披萨订单激增了76%。菠萝可能是所有浇头中最具争议和争议性的。
“Tastes are changing and people are getting more experimental,” said Abe Nasrallah, an executive with Slice, which released the study to time with National Pizza Day on Feb. 9.
“口味在变化，人们越来越有实验精神，”Slice的高管阿贝·纳斯鲁拉(Abe Nasrallah)说。该公司在2月9日的全国披萨日(National Pizza Day)发布了这项研究。
““Tastes are changing and people are getting more experimental.””— Abe Nasrallah, executive at Slice
“人们的口味在变化，越来越多的人在尝试。”——Abe Nasrallah, Slice的执行总裁
Nasrallah is quick to note that pepperoni is “king of the pizza world” and remains the most popular of toppings by far. Pineapple ranks in the 15th spot, behind such toppings as mushrooms (which claims the no. 2 spot), sausage (no. 4), green peppers (no. 8) and even spinach (no. 13).
纳斯鲁拉很快指出，意大利辣香肠是“披萨世界之王”，到目前为止仍然是最受欢迎的配料。菠萝排在第15位，排在蘑菇之后。2点)，香肠(没有。4)、青椒(没有。8)甚至菠菜。13)。
Still, the rise of pineapple might be considered surprising, given how often it has been maligned as a pizza topping. You’ll find pineapple-on-pizza haters aplenty on social media, with one particularly anti-pineapple “activist,” who goes by the moniker Pizza Activism, leading an entire global campaign. In one recent Instagram post, Pizza Activism spotlighted a welcome mat with the following inscription: “If you like pineapple on pizza, you are not welcome.”
不过，鉴于菠萝经常被诋毁为披萨的配料，它的兴起可能会被认为是令人惊讶的。你会在社交媒体上发现很多讨厌菠萝披萨的人，其中有一个特别反对菠萝的“激进分子”，他的名字叫披萨行动主义(Pizza Activism)，领导了一场全球运动。在最近的一篇Instagram帖子中，披萨行动(Pizza Activism)特别关注了一个受欢迎的垫子，上面写着:“如果你喜欢在披萨上放菠萝，你就不受欢迎。”
There are also no shortage of pizza professionals who decry the use of pineapple as a topping. “It’s a little too sweet…It doesn’t play nicely with everybody else,” says Michael Ayoub, chef and owner of Fornino, a New York City pizza restaurant with multiple locations.
也不乏反对用菠萝做馅料的披萨专家。Fornino披萨店的主厨兼老板迈克尔•阿尤布(Michael Ayoub)表示:“这种披萨有点太甜了……和其他所有人都不太合拍。”Fornino披萨店在纽约开有多家分店。
““It’s a little too sweet…It doesn’t play nicely with everybody else.””— Chef and veteran pizza-maker Michael Ayoub on pineapple as a topping.
“它有点太甜了……和其他所有人都不太合得来。”“”——厨师兼资深披萨师傅迈克尔·阿尤布将菠萝作为配料。
Not that pineapple-on-pizza fans are keeping quiet. Take Dwayne “The Rock” Johnson, who shared his passion for the topping (paired with ham — the classic Hawaiian pie, in other words) in an Instagram post. “Pineapple on pizza is MY JAM,” he wrote. (Though in the same post, he also noted: “keep in mind, I’m the guy who likes to put tequila and brown sugar in my oatmeal.”)
这并不是说菠萝披萨的粉丝们保持沉默。以“巨石”道恩·约翰逊(Dwayne Johnson)为例，他在Instagram上分享了自己对这种配料的热爱(搭配火腿——换句话说，这是一种经典的夏威夷派)。“披萨上的菠萝就是我的果酱，”他写道。(不过在同一篇帖子中，他还指出:“记住，我就是那个喜欢在燕麦粥里加龙舌兰酒和红糖的人。”)
Another way of looking at the pineapple-on-pizza divide: A 2019 U.S. survey found that 12% of respondents said the fruit was among their three favorite toppings. But that same survey found that 24% of respondents said pineapple was among their least favorite toppings.
另一种看待菠萝和披萨区别的方式是:2019年美国的一项调查发现，12%的受访者表示，菠萝是他们最喜欢的三种配料之一。但同一项调查发现，24%的受访者表示，菠萝是他们最不喜欢的配料之一。
It was the invention of the Hawaiian pie decades ago that brought pineapple to the fore as a pizza topping in the first place. But as it turns out, no Hawaiians were involved in the creation of the one-of-a-kind pizza. Instead, Sotirios “Sam” Panopoulos, a Greek native who settled in Canada and became a successful restaurateur, is credited with coming up with the dish. And he was the first to admit that it started as a lark.
正是由于几十年前夏威夷派的发明，菠萝才成为了披萨上的配料。但事实证明，没有夏威夷人参与制作这种独一无二的披萨。相反，人们认为这道菜是由土生土长的希腊人索蒂里奥斯•“萨姆”•帕诺普洛斯(Sotirios“Sam”Panopoulos)发明的。他在加拿大定居，后来成为一名成功的餐馆老板。他是第一个承认这只是个玩笑的人。
“We just put it on, just for the fun of it, see how it was going to taste,” he said in a 2017 interview. (Panopoulos died that same year at age 82.)
他在2017年的一次采访中说:“我们只是为了好玩，把它戴上，看看味道如何。”(帕诺普洛斯同年去世，享年82岁。)
Obviously, the Hawaiian pie caught on — at least with a small segment of the pizza-loving public. But what’s behind the more recent pineapple boom?
显然，夏威夷派开始流行起来——至少在一小部分喜爱披萨的人群中流行起来。但最近菠萝热的背后是什么呢?
““Pineapple on pizza is MY JAM.””— Dwayne “The Rock” Johnson
“披萨上的菠萝是我的果酱。”“”——巨石强森
As Slice’s Nasrallah notes, pizza eaters are getting more adventurous. And that applies not just to toppings, but also to entire pizza styles. The Slice report, for example, noted that New Haven pizza, a regional style (also known as “apizza”) that is decidedly crispier than, say, the traditional New York pizza, is starting to trend, with orders for it increasing by 163% in 2021.
Slice的纳斯鲁拉指出，吃披萨的人越来越喜欢冒险。这不仅适用于配料，也适用于整个披萨风格。例如，Slice的报告指出，纽黑文市披萨(New Haven pizza)这一地区风格的披萨(也被称为“apizza”)正开始流行起来，2021年订单增长了163%。这种披萨比传统的纽约披萨更脆。
Arthur Bovino, a pizza expert who works on editorial content for Ooni Pizza Ovens, a prominent manufacturer, says the current pineapple boom may be explained by the fact the trend has gone beyond the Hawaiian pie. He notes that the fruit can be pickled or roasted and then used as a topping with a little more depth.
亚瑟·博维诺(Arthur Bovino)是一名披萨专家，为著名披萨制造商乌尼披萨烤箱(Ooni pizza Ovens)负责编辑内容。他表示，当前的菠萝热潮可能是因为这种趋势已经超越了夏威夷派。他指出，这种水果可以腌制或烘烤，然后用作更深层的浇头。
Plus, Bovino says that different fruits are finding their way on pizza as part of a broader rethinking of what constitutes a good topping.
此外，Bovino说，不同的水果正在寻找适合披萨的方法，这是对什么是好的配料进行更广泛反思的一部分。
“You have people in Sweden putting bananas on pizza,” Bovino says. (And trust us: Bovino isn’t kidding — the Swedes apparently love their bananas.)
“在瑞典，人们把香蕉放在披萨上，”Bovino说。(相信我们:Bovino不是在开玩笑——瑞典人显然很喜欢他们的香蕉。)
在2019年米兰骄傲活动上，一名女子举着写着“披萨里只有菠萝是违背自然的”的标语游行，该活动旨在纪念同性恋群体。米格尔·梅迪纳/法新社，来自盖蒂图片社
Pineapple can also be combined with other ingredients beyond ham.
菠萝还可以和火腿以外的其他配料搭配。
“Some pizza-makers pair the sweetness of the pineapple with spicier meat topping to get a more intriguing and balanced flavor profile –– a little sweet, a little heat,” says Rick Hynum, editor in chief of PMQ Pizza Magazine, a trade publication.
行业刊物《PMQ披萨杂志》主编里克•海纳姆(Rick Hynum)说:“一些披萨制造商将菠萝的甜味与更辣的肉搭配在一起，以获得更吸引人、更平衡的口味——有点甜，有点辣。”
Sure enough, among the latest offerings from Pizza Hut YUM, -1.68% is a Spicy Lover’s Hawaiian Chicken pie, pineapple naturally included. A spokeswoman for the chain also noted that pineapple is one of its most popular toppings in general.
果然，在必胜客百胜(Pizza Hut YUM)的最新产品中，有一款辛辣情人夏威夷鸡肉派(Spicy Lover’s Hawaiian Chicken pie)，其中自然含有菠萝。该连锁店的一位发言人还指出，菠萝是最受欢迎的配料之一。
Domenico “Mimmo” Tolomeo, the chief pizza maker at Zazzy’s, another New York City-based chain, says the hate it/love it debate over pineapple as a pizza topping may itself be driving the trend.
纽约另一家披萨连锁店Zazzy 's的首席披萨师傅Domenico“Mimmo”Tolomeo表示，关于将菠萝作为披萨配料的争论本身可能推动了这一趋势。
“I think it just makes the people in the middle say, ‘What’s this all this about?’” Tolomeo observes. From there, he says it’s not long before some will try a pie with pineapple — and a few may ultimately stick with it. (For his part, Tolomeo hasn’t yet offered pineapple as a topping, but he’s contemplating creating a pie with a pineapple-based sauce.)
“我认为这只会让中间的人说，‘这到底是怎么回事?”Tolomeo观察。他说，不久之后，有些人就会尝试用菠萝做派，而有些人可能最终会坚持下去。(托洛米奥还没有把菠萝作为馅料，但他正在考虑用菠萝酱做一个派。)
Ultimately, many pizza pros say regardless of what they think of pineapple as a topping, they can’t ignore the demand from customers.
最后，许多披萨专业人士表示，不管他们认为菠萝是一种配料，他们都不能忽视顾客的需求。
When sisters Ardiana and Zana Dautaj opened Spinachio Pizza in North Haledon, N.J. a couple of years ago, they didn’t plan on offering pineapple as a topping. But then came the requests. “People kept asking,” says Ardiana, who admits the sweet-and-salty combo is not her thing.
黛安娜(Ardiana)和扎娜(Zana Dautaj)两姐妹几年前在新泽西州北哈雷登(North Haledon)开了一家菠菜披萨店(Spinachio Pizza)，当时她们并没有打算用菠萝做配料。但接着就来了请求。“人们一直在问，”Ardiana说，她承认她不喜欢甜咸组合。
Now, the Hawaiian pie, with pineapple and ham, is one of Spinachio’s strongest sellers — so much so that the sisters are moving beyond pizza with their pineapple offerings. “We even have a Hawaiian calzone,” says Ardiana.
现在，用菠萝和火腿做成的夏威夷派成为了菠菜店最畅销的产品之一，以至于这对姐妹不再只做披萨，而是推出了菠萝派。“我们甚至还有夏威夷披萨饼，”Ardiana说。
